Also known as the MaggotCrown Ogre Juggernaut from the Bones Black line of Reaper Miniatures. Painting this miniature provided me with a much needed source of therapy. An itch that demanded to be scratched. While I love Elves and Dwarves as subject matters to paint, the undead allow me to get dirty, corroded, and down right disgusting. This model is no different than a number of others done in the past, except he’s a hulking ogre.
Colors Used in Model
To start off with, the color choices for this mini remained relatively limited. The design here is to create a focal point and a large variety of color would distract from that.
- Metallics
- Army Painter
- Gun Metal
- Weapon Bronze
- Creamcoat
- Iron Oxide
- Army Painter
- Shades
- Citadel
- Nuln Oil – Citadel
- Agrax Earthshade – Citadel
- Hexwraith Flame
- Army Painter
- Strong Tone
- Citadel
- Matte
- Army Painter
- Matte White
- Dungeon Grey
- Necromancer Grey
- Oak Brown
- Leather Brown
- Monster Brown
- Banshee Brown
- Necrotic Flesh
- Skeleton Bone
- Dragon Red
- Citadel
- Ryza Rust
- Nihilakh Oxide
- Privateer Press
- Coal Black
- Army Painter
Please note that the list consists of a lot of grays and browns. The end product will not appear overtly brown or gray.
Getting Started
Usually not mentioned, but a very important step: before you start a model, wash the model with soap and water. I do this every single time, but really scrub all Reaper Miniature Bones models. The mold release sticks to the plastics and takes some scrubbing to get off properly. I allowed the model to air dry fully before beginning the painting process.
After the model was dry, I began laying down the base colors. Since it will cover a majority of the model I started with Necromancer Grey. I applied this color to all the metal-looking plate armor. After that, I applied Oak Brown to the scale mail and leather straps. On the gloves and the sides of the scale mail, I laid down an application of Leather Brown.
I returned to Oak Brown for the mace haft and used Dungeon Grey on the mace head and bands. Early on, I decided to go with a more stone look for the weapon to offset all the rusted/corroded metal armor.
For the clasp I used the same grey as the mace head; again to provide some variety in the appearance of the model. An application of Banshee Brown made the skull and icon much lighter in appearance to begin the focal points. At the elbow and backside of the knees you can see withered flesh, and in those areas I used Necrotic Flesh. It seemed appropriate considering the idea I had for both the skull and icon. After that, I began the application of washes.
I applied Citadel’s Nuln Oil to all areas except the brown colored regions and the Necrotic Flesh. An application of Citadel’s Agrax Earthshade went to all the brown areas. Then, to the Necrotic Flesh a layer, I added Army Painter Strong Tone. After that, I applied Army Painter Dragon Red to the alternate side of the chest and loin cloth plating. I started to apply the Iron Oxide paint to part of the plate mail to get an idea of how much weathering to add, as well as pure Gun Metal for scratches and gouges in the plate mail.
While determining if I liked the look, a layer of Privateer Press’s Coal Black was applied to the scale mail sections of the model to begin the corroded bronze metal look. After that, I applied the Bronze metal paint – Bronze weapon – mostly to the tapered tips of the scales. While waiting for those areas to dry, I applied more Iron Oxide to the remaining sections of the plate mail.
Taking a break from metal work, I tackled the leather areas and the necrotic flesh of the ogre. Reapplying Leather Brown to most of the hand took little time. Using Monster Brown, I began to lighten the Leather Brown by adding small amounts at a time. I then highlighted the fingers and raised portions of the gloves. In some spots I used pure Monster Brown to provide the brightest highlights.
Meanwhile, I thought about how to highlight the necrotic flesh of the ogre. It appeared to me while looking at the model that in some areas the bones lay right beneath the skin. So I returned to the Nectrotic Flesh and applied the first layer leaving the dark tone in the deeper recesses. I then used Skeleton Bone in increasing amounts to lighten the Necrotic Flesh, each layer smaller than the last.
After the flesh I turned back to the plate mail. At this point it was time to paint on the newer/brighter looking rust. Time to open Citadel’s Ryza Rust and start making the armor look gnarly. However, I wanted a smaller splotched look and my normal brushes would not be up for the look nor abuse. So instead, a microbrush was the tool that I needed for the job. Stippling can be destructive to brushes and while I dislike single use items, in this case it’s necessary. I can typically get 2 to 3 uses out of them.
The process of stippling is simple, but can take quite a bit of time. In this case, it was approximately twenty to twenty five minutes due to the size of the miniature and the brush size used. However, the overall look can be stunning!
After completing the rust effect, I moved on to the mace. I started out by highlighting the wooden haft with the original Oak brown. To highlight the wood, I added increasing amounts of Leather Brown to lighten the dark brown coloration. For the stone bands and mace head, I reapplied Dungeon Grey for bring back the base color. I then lightened the Dungeon Grey with small amounts of Matte White to start the highlight process. The lightest color was reserved for free-handing in cracks and chips in the stone.
Having finished the mace, I moved on to the casket icon and ogre skull. I started off by reapplying the Banshee Brown to all areas except the deepest recesses. After that, I painted the ogre’s teeth skeleton bone. With the casket icon I added white to the Banshee brown and began to highlight the center of the flat space. I kept adding white until I was pleased with the overall look.
For the teeth, I added white to the skeleton bone to help them stand out a little. From there, I began the work on the skull. As with the icon, I started by adding small amounts of white to the Banshee Brown. Except this time I added the Matte White in several more times than with the icon. Once finished the the highlights, I painted the nasal cavity and the eye sockets with Matte White. I added Citadel’s Hexwraith Flame in the nasal cavity, eye sockets and casket icon after an hour. Afterwards, I painted a ghost face in the casket icon using Necromancer Grey. From there it was the simple task of finishing the base of the model.
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